Applying even pressure, gently and steadily pull the faceplate from the plastic clamps that are lightly holding it in place; both side and the bottom.

 Before completely removing the faceplate, disconnect the yellow power button assembly (PBA) power cord.  Regardless of your version, the PBA cord always attaches to the motherboard.  Unplug and pull through the metallic housing while removing the plate.

 Once unplugged and removed, you are ready to replace the PBA assembly.  Check out the following steps carefully.  Although strong, you don’t want any excessive force to be used while removing and replacing this component.

 Gently push the one tab located on the top back of the faceplate back into the faceplate itself.  All you need to do is clear the edge of the PBA from the tab. 

 Taking a hold of the PBA by both sides, GENTLY lift it from the top.  NOTE: if the tab has not successfully cleared the edge, you will not be able to easily lift it free.  Pressure should be about the force used to snap your fingers loudly.  Once removed, reverse the steps and install the pre-lit PBA.

 Now onto the controller ports.  These are relatively easy.  Using a Torx 10 driver or 10T “L”-Key (available here), unscrew the two screws in each port.  Grabbing the port cables very close to the base, pull gently at about a 45 degree angle, up and out.  These can be a little sticky, so you can use a bit more “pull” if needed.

 Replace the ports with the pre-lit ones.  NOTE: the ports will likely be more difficult to get back in than they were to remove.  The reason is that we have to lift up the metal edges on the ports to access a power connection for the LEDs.  Double check that all parts of the port are tight, they might want to “lift” by themselves around the edges, making it more difficult to replace them.  Set all items down and make sure all connections are secure.  Having grounded yourself, plug your xbox in and make sure the port and PBA lights come on.  Unplug the xbox once the LEDs are tested.

 Here are the lighting components included in your kit.  Note that you will also receive two sets of T-Taps as shown.  The wire on the right side of the picture is actually a smaller part of the piece pictured next…

 From the molex wiring harness included in your kit, clip the wires as far as you can from the inverter connector.  This is the only part you will need from this array of wires. 

 Those T-Taps I was referring to earlier.  For easy reference, we will refer to them as the blue set and the red set.

Once you’ve clipped the casing and exposed the wire with 16 gauge wire stripper, twist the exposed wire into one wire bundle.  The best way to go about this next step is to reverse a process…

 The result.

 Disconnect the power supply unit from the hard drive whether your hard drive is in or out of the case.  You need to access the input plug as close to the base as you can, comfortably, but leave enough room so the T-Taps can be tucked off to the side behind the IDE cable once reinserted.

 The power supply unit 4 female connector will now be prepped for hijacking.  You are looking for a yellow or orange wire to apply the tap to.

You can see from the inset below that the tap has an area set up for the wire already.  Just lay it across and clamp firmly with pliers. 

 The teeth will do most of the work.

 Complete.  Note, a ground wire is a ground wire, but we recommend crimping the black one next to the orange (or yellow) toward center.

There’s no mistaking how these two get together.  The rule is as follows with wiring the power supply connector to the cathode wiring via t-taps: red goes to yellow and yellow can be orange.

 Plug the hijacked power supply cord back into the hard drive, making sure all cords and taps are tucked nicely away in any available area.

Laying on a very clean surface ( a microfiber cloth is recommended), clean the surface of the lid with a stringent cleaner; no oil based cleaners.

 Before you begin gluing, lay the plexi-glass cut out on the inside of the lid.  Mark off areas where there is more overlap than others.  That “border” around the edge of the plexi is the area we will hit with hot glue or another recommended adhesive with a thin bead.  Focus on the corners if you can and especially the stalagmite-type support tabs ascending from the base as shown in the inset.

Now, take the cathode fan grill ring and remove the screw hole tab on the opposite side of the wire entering the ring. using a fine toothed saw like a hack saw works best.

Again, take your adhesive and make a ring around the outside of jewel hole.  Carefully place the fan ring around the jewel hole and press firmly once positioned.  Put note in about hot gluing the bead once jewel is in place to inhibit dust from entering the “zone”.

With everything side by side, we are ready for lid placement.

The lid, with the plexi-glass custom cuts to the front, needs to be attached to the blue inverter box toward the back of the dvd drive.   Set all items down and make sure all connections are secure.  Plug your xbox in and make sure the cathode light comes on.  Unplug the xbox once the cathode is tested.

Screw the remaining case screws into the bottom of the case, manually and slowly.  Close the lid and ready the overhead lights.

Tight

Tighter

Even tighter

More tight

And this is with the lights on!!!Remember the jewels are a few more skrilla at 5/8 inch thickness. 

These Mad-Modder Jewels are so detailed this photo doesn’t do it justice.  The depth and detail won’t come through in a 2D view.  Let’s try another…

Better, though still not as good as the real thing.  Enough said.